Molokai, Przewodniki, Wyspy Hawajów (PDF)
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C
ertain people are drawn to open roads, to roads
that have no need for traffic signals, roads without
streetlights to obliterate the stars. Certain travelers
yearn to go farther than a jet can take them. They
want something more than spoiling luxury. They have a voice
inside that says, "Don't coddle me. Give me the real deal."
If you have a bit of that voice, come to Moloka‘i.
On Moloka‘i you will experience true silence, see more stars
than you ever imagined actually existed in the night sky, and
encounter independent-minded people who
live close to the land. You'll have the
opportunity to notice the passage of the
wind, the smell of the plants, and the
moods of the sea. Naturally, you begin
to pay more attention.
People here do a lot of fishing, hunting, and gardening.
They don't think of tourism as an industry. Instead, they
regard island visitors as guests. "Why have you come?" they
want to know. "What is it you want?" For many travelers, a
Moloka‘i sojourn becomes a discovery of the answer to that
question. And that answer can be a surprise.
Culturally, this island is as Hawaiian as
it gets. Its population of
roughly 8,100 includes
a far higher percentage
of native descendants
than you find
anywhere else in the
State. But numbers alone do not explain the authenticity you
experience on Moloka‘i. Here, culture is not put on display as
an artifact, a show, or a relic. It is the life that is lived.
Little Moloka‘i sits directly between O‘ahu and Maui.
For this reason, many many more people fly over it than ever
land on it. This is a fate that the people of Moloka‘i have
chosen and prefer.
You could say that the world has left Moloka‘i behind.
Or is it the other way around?
Be awed by the world’s tallest sea cliffs, Moloka‘i’s soaring North Shore pali.
Moloka‘i morning
Historic Halawa Bay, entrance to Halawa Valley, one of Moloka‘i’s greatest
natural treasures.
Sunrise strikes the island's eastern point, illuminating beautiful
Halawa Valley—a classic Hawaiian cathedral valley with twin
waterfalls at the head and a sinuous bay. One of the first
settlement sites in the Islands, Halawa was once filled with taro
patches (lo‘i), thatched
houses (hale), and temples
(heiau). Today it is a cultural
treasure where the stones
seem to whisper the stories
of old days. Descendants of
those early residents are
now restoring portions of the
settlement and offer daily
educational hikes to the falls.
Above the valley, Pu‘u O
Hoku Ranch welcomes
visitors to its country store,
which features organic
produce grown on the ranch itself. The ranch's 14,000 acres, which
include an outstanding retreat facility, have been dedicated to
conservation and sustainable farming practices.
Journey into the presence of the island’s
primordial past.
From here the two-lane road follows a dramatic shoreline with
views of humpback whales and West Maui, then passes pocket-
sized beaches, ancient fishponds, and moist groves. Stop at
Mana‘e Goods and Grinds for supplies, and visit a couple small
churches built by Father Damien himself.
Moloka‘i mid-day
The plains of middle Moloka‘i are big-sky country, mostly made up of
family farms. The main feature around here is Kaunakakai, the
island's one true town. The commercial strip, about two blocks long,
is decidedly low-tech and hand-built. Here you'll find the island's two
gas stations, most of its eateries, and the Moloka‘i Visitors
Association. (Visitors are urged to stop by for free and appropriate
guidance.) Small as it is, Kaunakakai has all the basics (grocery
stores, a pharmacy and medical clinic) and more—wines and spirits,
bike rentals, a health food store, and a fish-and-dive center. Strike up
conversations. Don't be shy.
Stroll charming Ala Malama street, down the center of fun and funky Kaunakakai.
Kaunakakai Harbor is home to Moloka‘i’s famed
fleet of fishing boats.
Most fishing and
kayaking adventures
begin near here at the
Kaunakakai Wharf. Also
nearby is headquarters
of The Nature
Conservancy, where you
can learn about two
extremely important
areas of ecological
preservation, Kamakou
and Mo‘omomi.
The cool uplands drive
on Hwy. 470 passes
Coffees of Hawai‘i, the
Moloka‘i Museum, and
the Kalaupapa
Lookout before ending
at Pala‘au State Park.
Moloka‘i Museum
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